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Yeni Raki at The Clove Club dinner

Yorkshire suckling pig and south Indian spices, with Yeni Raki at The Clove Club

Menu from a dinner with Yeni Raki at the Michelin-starred The Clove Club in Shoreditch: A selection of snacks to start Raw Orkney scallop, hazelnut, sudachi and Perigord truffle Line caught Cornish cod, Jerusalem artichoke, sorrel and kabosu citrus Yorkshire suckling pig and south Indian spices Amalfi lemonade and Sarawak pepper Warm blood orange, ewe’s…

Chocolate terroir at Valrhona’s Loma Sotavento

Loma Sotavento Cacao plantation, Dominican Republic

Over the last few years the provenance of ingredients has been something of a fevered trend. Ingredients seem to spring from increasing obscurity and arguably at the expense of common sense. Sometimes, it’s hard not to feel like we all have a bad case of the Emperor’s New Clothes. While sorting through some old photographs…

Eating out in China, Part Four: Shanghai

Baked snapper, salad, kale, almonds, Saltvand at Henkes, Shanghai

Shanghai was the final stop on my lengthy China trip that began in Chengdu. There’s something about Shanghai that switched on the European bulb in my vision of dining. Perhaps it was when I crossed the river from Pudong (where I was staying at the Mandarin Oriental, home of Richard Ekkebus’ Shanghai outpost), came out…