Menu from a dinner at Osteria Cantine Cattaneo, Sestri Levante:
Small Tataki of red tuna
Roasted octopus in lemon leaf on potato pie with taggiasche olives and pine nuts
Potatoes gnocchetti with red mullet ragu and dehydrated tomato powder
Slice of wild morone on crisp potatoes
[Panna cotta with dulce de leche]
Situated in the basement of a farmhouse, Cantine Cattaneo is something of a local legend. The place was once the cellars of a noble family’s stately home and now it’s a cosy, upscale place to eat. On the night that I went, the restaurant was very busy, with more guests streaming in over the course of the dinner.
The fact that it’s in a basement is a bit of a let down though – there was a hint of damp in the air and it feels a little stuffy. It just doesn’t immediately feel like an appealing place to have dinner.
But the food was well made and the service was welcoming and friendly. The octopus was particularly good and so was the semifreddo.
We had simple wines but by the looks of the wine cases stacked in the room, they have a very interesting wine list to go with the food.