Pancake soup at Restaurant Schwedenschenke, Food in Baden-Württemberg

Swabian cuisine around Baden-Württemberg

In May this year, I went on my first trip to Germany.

The premise of the trip was to drive around Lake Constance, in Hymer caravans, visiting some of the wine regions. (You can follow the Baden-Württemberg wine series here) I know, a drink and drive shocker!

In actual fact, there wasn’t so much driving – I was relieved of my duties after one day as I was deemed too slow a driver. And there wasn’t so much drinking either – it was obviously all about the tastings. But there was quite a bit of eating, of course.

Veal, carrots and spatzle at Winzerhof Gierer, Food in Baden-Württemberg

I’ve always been a bit dubious of German food – there I said it. Probably because, more than anything else, I associate it with Bavarian sausages and rustic stews. There’s a sort of uniformity in flavour where, once you’ve had one dish, you’ve had them all.

Baden-Württemberg, the region that Lake Constance is part of, is known for its own local style – Swabian cuisine. The classic dishes include Spätzle (rolled noodles), Flädle soup (pancake soup) and those dreaded stews.

But actually, it wasn’t so bad. The food was mostly rustic, certainly hearty but more often than not, pretty tasty. What was really funny was the number of times asparagus popped up on the menu. Or indeed panna cotta.

There is a downside to eating seasonally.

Collegium Wirtemberg buffet

Collegium Wirtemberg buffet, Food in Baden-Württemberg


Winzerhof Gierer

Gutsschänke Meersburg

Restaurant Schwedenschenke

Gasthaus zum Hirschen

Cube Stuttgart

Qin Xie

Qin Xie is a London based food, wine and travel journalist and trained chef.

When not infiltrating Michelin restaurants as a kitchen tourist, she writes about food, drink and travel. Her work has appeared on Yahoo, FT, The Times and CNN.

Her first cookbook, co-authored with YS Peng at Hunan Restaurant, is out March 2014.

According to friends, her watch is always set to UTC -- ready for the next big adventure. In reality, she is happiest at the dinner table or by the sea.


  1. […] few days after getting back from the winelands of Baden-Württemberg, I was heading off to another, equally old but much revered, wine region – the Douro […]

  2. […] Swabian cuisine around Baden-Württemberg […]

  3. […] (Read about Baden and Württemberg’s distinctive food here) […]

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